Geocaching – Use Your GPS to Find Hidden Treasures

Every once in a while something comes along that’s just plain fun. Geocaching is one of those things. If you’ve never heard of it…don’t feel alone. I only found out about it a few months ago.

Geocaching started in Portland Oregon. It evolved around the Global Positioning System (GPS) developed by the Department of Defense. Before the turn of the century, the military limited GPS accuracy available to civilians to about 328 feet. President Clinton changed that in May of 2000 so that now, anyone can determine their position to within roughly 30 feet, anywhere on the planet!

When Dave Ulmer hid a bucket of trinkets in a woods outside of Portland, Oregon and announced its location on a USENET newsgroup- geocaching was born. He listed the location of this ‘treasure’ by its global coordinates. Coordinates are measured as units of latitude and longitude and these are broken down into degrees, minutes, and seconds. Which is what you’ll find when you read your location using a GPS receiver.

Geocaching is in essence, a world wide scavenger hunt using GPS receivers as the divining rods to find the treasure. Though in most cases, the treasure has little or no actual monetary value. The fun is in the hunt.

Most of you are probably thinking, “GPS, isn’t that the device I use in my car that tells me how to get from one place to another?” Yes, that is a GPS receiver, but it’s not the kind we need for geocaching. What I’m talking about are the hand held GPS units that hikers and fisherman use. They are much less expensive and can be found at Walmart and most hunting and fishing outfitters. You might want to check on eBay too. I just searched for “GPS Explorer” (this got me in the area of hand held units) and found 11 used hand held GPS receivers for under $25, two of these were less than $15.

So, let’s say you’ve acquired a GPS unit…and you’re ready to start geocaching. What do you do next? Start by logging onto http://www.geocaching.com. In the upper right hand corner of the home page, you’ll find “search for caches.” Enter your zip code, state, or country. I started with my zip code (47591). This search produced several pages of caches hidden in and around my hometown of Vincennes, IN.

One was hidden at the Sonotabac historical site. Another was at the William Henry Harrison mansion on the VU campus. There was one at the George Rogers Clark Memorial, and one at Kimmel Park, and Quabache Trails Park. They were everywhere. When you click on one of the cache listings, it will bring up a page with additional information. Here’s an example from the cache hidden by the Sonotabac Indian mound less than a mile from my house.

The cache is located at N 38 40.213 and W 087 30.431. These are the GPS coordinates and can be converted to UTM if needed. There’s also a street map showing the general area where the cache can be found. If needed, additional “hints” are provided. Difficulty and terrain ratings give you a good idea if the cache is easy or hard to find. Once found, people leave comments on the website letting others know what they thought of the cache and the surrounding area. Example: “This is a great cache! Took quite a while to find the container – it is extremely well hidden. The Indian Mound was great to see.”

I noticed that the person leaving this particular post had found a total of 412 caches. Two other posters had found 250 and 317 respectively. Now that’s some serious geocaching!

If you like the outdoors and enjoy a good scavenger hunt, you’ll love geocaching. It’s a great way to spend an afternoon or a whole summer vacation!

Randy Benjamin is an author and syndicated columnist. His latest books, “FREE Internet” and “How To Publish Anything On Amazon’s Kindle” are available on Amazon.com in paperback and Kindle e-book formats. For more information, visit his website: http://www.randybenjamin.com

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Gold Metal Detectors

With the high dollar amount for gold these days, it goes with out question that gold prospecting is really in! Getting outdoors for gold prospecting is in itself a great adventure. But when you combine that with the amazing price (over $1700 an ounce at time of writing) for an ounce of gold, it is a no brainer. If you are looking for a gold metal detector, here are a few options for you to consider.

Garrett Ace 250 Metal Detector

One of the top names in gold metal detectors is Garrett. Even at the entry level, Garrett has it hand down on quality gold metal detectors. With fierce loyalty from its users, the ACE 250 Metal Detector has fast made a name for itself as a fantastic coin shooter/relic hunter at an entry level price.

Ace 250 Metal DetectorThe microprocessor controlled ACE 250 features all the high tech performance of machines costing three times as much, including graphic target ID, adjustable discrimination, electronic pinpoint, 8 levels of sensitivity and depth, battery condition indicator, coin depth indicator, headphone jack (headphones optional), large LCD display, clear speaker tone and best of all; push button ease of use.

Search modes include all metal, jewelry, coins, relics and custom. The 250 works with all ACE Series search coils.

Click Here For More Information In the Garrett Ace 250 Metal Detector

 

Garrett GTI 2500 Pro Metal Detector

Looking for something more on the high end in gold metal detectors? Well, Garrett does not disappoint. Presenting the Garrett GTI 2500 Pro.

Garrett GTI 2500 Pro

The Garrett GTI 2500 Metal Detector is a high performance, graphic target imaging (GTI) metal detector of the highest quality. The GTI 2500 comes standard with the 9.5″ PROformance Imaging submersible search coil, but supports a wide range of additional Garrett coils.

Here are some of the features:

  • Garrett’s exclusive GTI technology displays the target’s true size and depth
  • PowerMaster Digital Signal Processor technology amplifies power to the coil for detecting up to 20% deeper and with a wider scan width
  • Non-Motion Deepseeking All-Metal Mode allows you to hold your coil still over a target with continuous audio signal
  • 24 “Notches” of discrimination for greater control over knocking out unwanted targets
  • Garrett’s ScanTrack technology adjusts to the speed of your swing for optimal signals how you like to detect
  • Push-button pinpointing with true size and depth display
  • FastTrack Ground Balance and Surface Elimination gives the GTI 2500 improved performance in difficult conditions
  • Built in search modes include all-metal, coins, jewelry, relics and zero, or set your own user defined custom search modes
  • Includes manual and instructional DVD

Click Here For More Information On The Garrett GTI 2500 Metal Detector

 

Guide To Metal Detectors and Gold Prospecting

Editorial Note: Here is a great article if you are looking at getting started with gold prospecting and metal detectors. Since you might only have ONE chance to find that Dream Nugget, it is imperative you have the best metal detector for the job. Click here to get more information on the best metal detectors for gold prospecting.

First and foremost, you want to find a metal detector that is already known to be very good for finding nuggets of gold. A great many detectors are for multi use purposes, and some of these might not be the best choice for your intended purpose, in mineralized areas. You really need to steer clear of the old BFO and TR detectors since these now are the detectors of the past. In recent years, massive advances have been achieved with regards to the technology of metal detectors. Ideally, you want to purchase a good VLF or a PI detector to gain good results. On the market today there are at the very least a dozen or more great gold metal detectors and your budget will likely have a play in which one is best for you.

Certainly in mineralized areas strongly consider the pulse induction, PI detectors.

Now, as regards accessories, there are many on the market that can aid you vastly as you search for your ideal and suitable gold detector. If you pick the right ones these can greatly increase your gold metal detectors overall performance. One must have, is a good set of high impedance headphones. If at all possible, what you want to try and do is to to match the impedance of the headphones to your actual gold detector. You will find that some work great with some detectors, whilst on others, the results will not be so good.

Another worthwhile accessory is an audio booster or signal enhancer which will help to increase faint target sounds, but be aware also that these can increase the background noise whilst you are out in the field conducting your gold metal detecting.

Nearly all detector manufacturers produce a variety of search coils, i.e. the round device that you move just above the surface of the ground and/or terrain. These can vary in size and also in configuration (DD, DD pro, Mono and Salt). As a general rule of thumb, the smaller circumference loops work best for tighter areas and smaller gold which is close to the surface. Larger coils have the advantage of allowing you to cover more ground, although they have less sensitivity to smaller pieces of gold, the advantage with these though is the depth to which they can detect gold nuggets lower down or deeper, this does depend though as I said on the size of the coil and the target. Recent advances have made some detectors very advanced pieces of equipment in their own right and there are now some very good ones on the market, the MineLab 4500 springs to mind straightaway if you have the budget for this one.

You will also need a decent digger, often called a prospecting pick, this will enhance your digging speed considerably. Consider first a lightweight pick as the less weight you need to cart around the more ground you can cover at the end of the day. A metal handle or a wooden handle makes little difference, just make sure if the latter that the handle is not going to snap on you at the worst possible time, unexpectantly as this can be rather infuriating and time consuming should it happen to you.

Acquiring a super strong magnet is also very helpful in area that have a lot of iron trash. A strong good sized magnet will save you so much time when digging in an area where there is lots of iron rubbish.

Mark P Andrews is the co-owner of GoldsGold.com http://www.GoldsGold.com – Where you can find a great number of gold metal detectors available for sale at down to earth prices. You will find on the website, just about every conceivable item of equipment required for successful gold prospecting, even gold claims, gold bars, gold nuggets and for the home prospector, paydirt as well that you can pan in your own garden or yard. Check out the website rightaway: http://www.GoldsGold.com

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Top 10 Geocaching Safety Tips

Geocaching and related outdoor activities all carry an element of risk. The most important part of keeping safe is to know your limits and be prepared if something happens. The geowife and I like to push the limits. We’ve been lucky. Early in our geocaching career, we blundered into a couple of situations that worked out OK but could have been serious. We learned our lessons. Now when we saddle up for a long range cache, we are seriously geared up. Of course, if you’re doing drive by caching in parking lots and the like, you don’t have to be as intense. But if you’re headed into the boonies or even just out of sight of your car for a while, you need to be prepared. You don’t want to be out there, separated from your geopartner, no communication, no water plus it’s starting to rain, get dark and you’re not sure how to get back. We speak from some experience on that. Keep the following 10 things in mind and apply as needed for safer and more effective caching.

#10. Be bear aware. If you’re in bear country, your outlook changes because you’re not at the top of the food chain anymore. Bears can’t see very well but their hearing and smell are sensational and they can outrun a horse over a short distance. Talk to people about recent local bear activity. Make some noise as you walk. I use binoculars to check the area around us as we move. You’d be amazed how little cover it takes to hide a big bear. Keep an eye down wind. Carry bear spray.

#9. Do what the cops tell you. Geocaching often looks suspicious, especially these days. Hanging around, looking, climbing, crawling can all get you noticed. We’ve been confronted by the police three times, once by the Ski Patrol and once by a construction foreman. Be nice and tell them about geocaching. We’ve had no problems with the encounters. One cop even helped us look. But some geocachers have been seriously hassled. Be ready just in case.

#8. Take extra batteries. The energizer bunny’s name is Murphy. It’s gut wrenching to have a GPSr die on you when you’re out in the middle of nowhere. Same with flashlights, phones, etc. If you’re depending on battery powered equipment to complete your quest, make sure you’ve got enough juice for the job — especially if you need to find your way back.

#7. Carry a big stick. Geowife and I use five foot lengths of 1 1/2 inch dowel rod which you can buy at any hardware store. They’re effective, innocuous and legal. They have a multitude of uses, from poking inside a dark cache to probing the trail in front of you to protection from animals (both four legged and two legged). They can also double as a crutch. We find them to be downright indispensable.

#6. Bring a first aid kit. Scratches and bug bites are part of the charm of geocaching. It can also be dirty, so take care of any open wound. The kit doesn’t need to be massive. Outdoor stores all sell small kits that will fit in a pocket. It can’t hurt to throw in an ACE wrap. If you’re allergic to bee stings, take your epi-pen. Keep your tetanus shot up to date for that rusty nail. Remember — if something happens out there, you’re on your own, at least for a while. Plan accordingly.

#5. Take your cell phone or walkie-talkies or both. Becoming separated from a geopartner is mildly annoying at best and can be downright dangerous. It’s happened to us a couple of times. So now we use walkie-talkies in the FRS/GMRS range with cell phone backup. Check the reception before you launch. Have a reconnect plan if all comm fails. Go to a pre-arranged meeting place after a certain time period. If all that fails, call 911.

#4. Don’t forget the hat and sunscreen. This one can really sneak up on you. You’re out getting multiple caches, in and out of the car and the trees and figure you don’t need to worry about the sun. But it all adds up and at the end of the day, you look like a lobster. If you’re going to be out in the sun, make sure you protect yourself. Lather on the sunscreen and keep it fresh. Then top it off with a wide brimmed hat and cool UV sunglasses.

#3. Be tick aware. Ticks are a clear and present danger in the outdoors — much more so than bears and snakes. They carry Lyme disease and other assorted bugs and they are everywhere. Wear long pants and long sleeve shirts. Douse your shoes and pant legs with DEET. Tuck your pant lags into your socks or wear gaiters. Check yourself and each other thoroughly and often and keep checking. The critters seem to come out of nowhere and are almost indestructible. The good news is that they have to attach themselves to a human host for 24 hours to pass on the virus. If you find one latched on, pull it straight out with tweezers. Lyme disease is treatable but no fun. If you geocache, you’re going to get ticks. Stay vigilant and stay healthy.

#2. Bring lots of water. This one that can sneak up on you too, usually in the form of a “quick cache” which turns into a marathon. Next thing you know, you’ve been out there for two hours with nothing to drink. Unless you’re doing PNGs, throw a bottle of water in your kit. For longer ventures, you can’t beat a CamelBak. Fill it with ice and top it off with water. You’ll have ice water the whole day.

#1. Know when to back off. Geocachers are a pretty tenacious bunch. Part of this activity is recognizing limits. Whether you are wilderness caching or getting a few in the local park, you have to constantly evaluate your situation. Heat, cold, dehydration, darkness, weather, time and distance are just some of the things you have to keep an eye on. It’s great to go for that one more cache but remember you have to get back. We’ve stopped literally yards away from GZ because we didn’t think we could complete it and/or get back safely. Things can go south in a real hurry out there. Don’t compromise your safety for a cache. It’ll be there tomorrow.

Be safe, stay healthy and cache on!

Dan Lawson has more information about this topic and many others on his website at http://www.offthebeatenpath.ws. Comments, suggestions and questions are welcomed and can be submitted through site links to his email and guest book.

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How To Create Your Own Geocache

Are you into Geocaching, but think you can come up with some great places for your own Geocache? Well it is easier than you think to get started. With a little knowledge, a few tools, some supplies, and a great cache spot, you can quickly get your own Geocache set up for others to find.

Here are some of the basics.

1. Before you go out there and hide your cache, it is important that you read through the guidelines provided by geocaching.com. Click here for the Cache Listing Requirements and Guidelines.

Essentially you must keep your cache within accessible areas, never buried, and family friendly. Remember, safety first, for you and other geocachers, keeping in mind that some out there are young children.

2. What you will find out when reading the guidelines and requirements is that there are certain contents needed for your geocache. This includes a note to geocachers and a log book. It is recommended to include a writing utensil for the geocachers.

When you are choosing the container you are going to use for your geocache, there are a few tings to consider:

  • Make it somewhat hard to find by camouflaging the outside of the container. Click here for some great camouflage duct tape products.
  • Use a container that will stand the test of time – flexible, thick plastic containers, or some metal containers (that wont rust) are your best options.
  • A screw on top helps keep the container sealed from water damage. I recommend some of the mid-sized containers that things like mayo, and other condiments come in.
  • Keep the container a decent size so that others can leave objects.

Here is an example of a geocache container. Small dry-roasted peanut container from the dollar store with some camouflage tape to cover it up. I included a small notebook and pencil (again from the dollar store), my note to cachers and a few trinkets for geocachers to find.

Duct tape seems to be best (as opposed to paint) as it lasts a long time in all weather. It also sticks to a number of different containers quite well.

Here is a link to some duct tape choices.

If you choose to paint your container, either with a brush or a spray paint, make sure to use an outdoor, all-weather paint. If you live where you get snow, your geocache likely will be in the snow for a part of the year and it is best to cover your container with something that will last.

3. When you start to look for a place to hide your geocache, make sure you follow the guidelines I provided above. While some geocaches can be very easy to find, called park ‘n grab, you can make it a bit of challenge and that creates more excitement and an enjoyable experience.

Sometimes people pick the obvious hiding place and can be spotted a mile away, so get creative. It is best to conceal your spot so that your geocache container is not visible to passers-by.

Once you have found the spot for your cache, you will need a device that will be able to “grab” the coordinates you will need when you submit your geocache. There are numerous GPS devices out there that will do just that. Click here for a few of the better GPS device choices available to you. While you are at the site, take note of specific information you will include in your submission, including terrain, general features, hints, proximity to parking, accessibility, and other guidelines to help the geocacher.

When you get home, submit your geocache and wait for approval. Once approved, you will soon see other geocachers locating your hidden cache, sometimes within hours of your geocache going live!

You are ultimately responsible to maintain your cache and should check on it from time to time to ensure everything is intact and in good shape.

I have found that hiding geocaches is just as exciting as finding them. You are creating a great experience for others, and challenging yourself to hide caches that are fun and lasting for years to come.

Geocaching Essentials

Here are a few geocaching essentials you need to consider. If you are new to geocaching, you will need some sort of GPS tracking device, ideally handheld. Beyond that, little is required. However, if you are interested in hiding items you want to track, like geobugs or travel bugs, there are a few suggestions included. For those of you that want to create your own geocaches, then I have also included some supplies you will need. Happy Geocaching!

GPS Tracking Devices:

Garmin GPSMAP 60CSx Handheld GPS Navigator

The venerable Garmin 60CS just got a whole lot better. The 7.5-ounce GPSMap 60CSx now features an insanely accurate, high-sensitivity GPS receiver by SiRF that tracks your position even in tree cover and canyons. Plus, you get a bright, sunlight-readable color TFT display and an included a 64 MB microSD card for storage of optional map detail.

The GPSMap 60CSx is packed with some extra fun features. An integrated outdoor calendar provides ideal hunting and fishing times, plus moon rise/set/location information. There is a dedicated geocaching mode for those of you into the hot GPS community treasure hunt game.

Garmin eTrex Venture HC GPS Receiver

The Garmin eTrex Venture HC is an essential for any outdoor excursion. It features a high-sensitivity GPS receiver for peak performance in any environment and includes 24 megabytes (MB) of internal memory, a detailed basemap and crisp color screen.

Other details include an IPX7 waterproof housing, a built-in patch antenna, a USB interface, a hunt/fish calendar, sun and moon information, and a geocaching mode.

Click Here For More GPS Handheld Tracking Devices

Geocaching Acronyms and Terms

A fellow Geocacher emailed me this list of terms and acronyms used by Geocaching enthusiasts. It is a great list to keep on hand. If there are more Geocaching acronyms and terms you know of and would like to add, email me at dcl@pweck.net.

Ammo Can – Waterproof, metallic military surplus ammunition boxes commonly used for regular sized cache containers.

Archived – Removed from the list of active caches.

Benchmark – Geographic marker placed by the US Geological Survey at an exact set of coordinates. A spin off of geocaching uses benchmarks in a manner similar to virtual caches.

Bison Tube – Small, metallic, cylindrical container often used for micro cache containers.

Blinky – Tiny container used for nano caches. Originally a small light intended to be attached to clothing.

BYOP – Bring Your Own Pen (or Pencil). Most micro caches are too small for the miniature log book and a writing utensil, so the cache owner is reminding you to take your own on the hunt.

CITO – Cache In, Trash Out. Refers to an ethic whereby cachers try and leave an area in better shape than they found it by picking up any trash they encounter after finding a cache.

CO – the cache owner

Decon – Military surplus container typically used for a decontamination kit. Often used for small caches that lie between regular and micro size.

Dipping – The act of logging a Travel Bug or GeoCoin into a cache, and immediately logging it back into ones possession. Someone might “dip” a Travel Bug or GeoCoin in order to register miles traveled before physically handing off the cache to someone else. Some people use a “personal traveler” to track their miles between caches, and will “dip” the traveler into each cache they find.

DNF – Did Not Find. Indicates that the cacher searched for a cache, but could not find it.

Film Canister – 35mm film container that was used for some of the first micro caches.

FTF – First To Find. Refers to first cacher to find a cache after it has been placed.

FWGB – Found with GeoBeagle. Indicates that the cacher used the popular GeoBeagle software product to log the cache find.

GCxxxx – Abbreviation for a cache identifier used on geocaching.com. The “xxxx” is a four character alphanumeric value (i.e. GCPMTT).

Geodashing – GPS game in which players attempt to get to more random coordinates in a playing field than the other participants.

GPSr – Global Positioning System receiver. Usually referred to just as a GPS.

GPX – Standard file format for exchanging coordinate information.

GSAK – Geocaching Swiss Army Knife. A popular software program cachers use to manage cache information, send and receive data to and from a GPS and convert coordinates between the major mapping formats.

GZ/Ground Zero – The point where the coordinates displayed on your GPS exactly match the coordinates given for a cache. Sometimes abbreviated as “GZ”.

Letterboxing – A precursor to geocaching in which hidden containers are found through clues instead of posted GPS coordinates.

LN – “Left Nothing”.

Maggots – Another term for a cache Pirates.

Member’s Only Cache (MOC) – A cache that is only visible to premium members of Geocaching.com. Created in part to help cut down on the number of pilfered caches.

Micro – A very small cache container. Altoids tins, film canisters and waterproof match holders are common micro containers.

MKH – “Magnetic Key Holder”. The hide-a-key box, usually intended to conceal a car or house key, can be utilized as a ready-made micro container. Since they are usually not water tight, logs need to be within small zip-lock baggies, if the container is going to be out in the elements.

MOC – Members Only Cache (see above).

Muggle – A non-cacher. Taken from the Harry Potter series. Often used when warning other cachers to be careful about exposing the location of a cache to non-cachers when its hiding place is not in a remote location.

Muggled – A cache that has been interfered with or taken by a non-cacher.

Multi – Short for a multi-cache (see below).

Multi-cache – A series of caches in which each cache provides coordinates to the next subsequent cache (typically a micro) in the series and eventually to a regular cache container. The simplest multi can have one re-director, the hardest can have many, many more.

Mystery Cache – A cache that requires the finder solve a puzzle to obtain the true coordinates for the cache container. The posted coordinates for mystery caches are typically not correct.

Newbie – An inexperienced geocacher.

NIAH – “Needle In A Haystack”. A small cache placed in an area where there are a great number of possible hiding locations.

Park ‘n Grab – A term used to describe a cache located close to a parking area and requiring little walking.

PI – Poison Ivy, the scourge of Central Texas geocachers (sometimes written as P.I.).

Pirates – A short-lived phenomenon where rogue geocachers would steal caches, and then either: a) destroy the cache; b) hold it for ransom; or c) move it to another location, leaving only a note behind with the new location. A number of minor variations were also used. A late attempt was made by some pirates to legitimize the activity, by making it an opt-in, non-destructive activity. But by that time, pirates had generated so much ill-will among mainstream geocachers (which still exists) that they were drummed out of the sport.

PnG – Abbreviation for Park ‘n Grab (see above).

Pocket Query – Custom geocache queries generated by geocaching.com and emailed to premium members. These can be easily downloaded to a GPSr.

Redirector – A cache which will only contain a set of coordinates in order to send the seeker to the actual cache being hunted. One piece of a multi-cache (see definition above).

Reviewer – Geocaching.com user who has moderator privileges that enable them to approve or deny new cache submissions.

R.O.W. – “Right Of Way”. Often, the area between a street and the sidewalk.

SL – “Signed Log”.

Spoiler – A hint to make finding a cache easier.

STF – Second To Find. The Silver medal winner in the race to find a cache first.

Swag – Slang term for the treasure and trinkets found in a geocache.

TB – Travel Bug. See definition below.

TFTC – Thanks For The Cache.

TFTH – “Thanks For The Hunt (or Hide)”. Occasionally written as T4TH.

TNLN – Took Nothing, Left Nothing. The cacher did not exchange an item from the cache contents.

TNLNSL – Took Nothing, Left Nothing, Signed Log. Similar to TNLN above, but also indicating that they signed the cache’s logbook.

Travel Bug – An item passed from cache to cache. Travel bugs are assigned tracking numbers and their travels can be tracked online. Many travel bugs have stated goals, such as making its way to a specific city or country.

UPS – “Unnatural Pile of Sticks”. A common telltale sign of a hidden cache. Sometimes UPR (Unnatural Pile of Rocks) or URP (Unnatural Rock Pile) is used.

URP – Unnatural Rock Pile. Refers to common practice of stack rocks on top of the cache to hide its location. The resulting pile often stands out to natural formations.

Virtual – Refers to a virtual cache, which does not represent a hidden container, but a location or monument that the cacher is supposed to find. Virtual caches are confirmed by answering a question posed by the cache owner in the description.

Watchlist – A list of caches for which you will receive via email a copy of any logs made for those caches. The number of caches you can have on your watchlist is dependent on the type of membership you have.

XNSL – Exchanged Nothing, Signed Log. A variation on TNLNSL (see above).

YAPIDKA – Yet Another Park I Didn’t Know About. Refers to the fact that some caches bring people to parts of town they know little about.

Geocaching – Safety First

Geocaching is always better when you consider safety first. Being prepared in advance for what you may encounter in your journeys is of crucial importance. By creating a safe environment for Geocaching, you will be fully able to enjoy the experience!

General Guidelines for caches that are local and close to the car (small parks, drive-ups, etc)

  • Geocache with a buddy whenever possible. It’s safer and more fun.
  • Carry an ID card at all times.
  • Tell someone where you are going, and when you will be back.
  • Carry a cell phone.

Guidelines for woods geocaching and longer hikes (the above rules apply, plus the ones below)

  • NEVER hike in the woods alone.
  • Stay on the trails. The majority of geocaches (unless otherwise noted) can be found by following trails.
  • Carry a compass, a whistle, and your ID on a lanyard around your neck.
  • Dress appropriately – and in layers – for the weather and terrain. Wear proper footwear!
  • Be able to identify hazardous plants such as Poison Ivy and Poison Oak.
  • Know about the local wildlife you may encounter, its beauty AND its dangers.
  • “Mark” the location of the car or main trail before you start each hike.
  • Carry a pack with water, powerbars/Snickers, map, and small first-aid kit for hikes longer than half mile.
  • Wear blaze orange in hunting areas during hunting season.
  • Stay alert and aware of your surroundings. Watch your footing, be aware of others on the trail.
  • If you get lost, don’t panic. Try your cell phone first. Use your compass. Use your whistle. STAY PUT!

Guidelines for geocaching with children

  • Keep children in sight at all times.
  • Each child should have a whistle and ID on lanyard around the neck. Teach child about whistle use.
  • Teach child that if they get lost, they should STAY PUT (in woods) or find ranger (in park).
  • Dress children in bright colors so you can see them easier.

What is Geocaching?

Geocaching is all the buzz these days. For over ten years now, this family-oriented outing has been the buzz the world wide. So just what is all the fuss about?

Geocaching is usually an outdoor activity that makes use of global positioning system (GPS) to track hidden “treasures” placed by other geocaching enthusiasts. It is a great way to get out and enjoy the outdoors with your family or friends, and can be easy enough for the youngest child to participate. With some of the larger cache’s there is an opportunity to take an object and leave something else. My daughter loves it when she finds something she can take!

My daughter and I just got into Geocaching recently and I have to say that we are hooked! There is nothing more exciting than tracking a cache to discover it hidden out of site to most of the general public. With a GPS unit, you track the cache with specific coordinates provided by the individual that has hidden the cache. Because this is a world-wide phenomenon, it is common to see logged notes of the cache’s discovery from people all over the world.

One great side activity involves the movement of an object that can be tracked online. That way you can see where your special object travels, and the journal is limitless! Referred to as geocoins, geobugs or travel bugs, these objects usually have a tracking id that you enter online when you find one. You can even note where you want the trackable to travel to. One recent travel bug I found was all the way from Germany!

If you are looking for a great way (or excuse) to get you and your friends and family out to get some exercise and fresh air, then geocaching might be just for you.

All the is required is a GPS tracking device, something special to leave in the caches, and maybe a pencil in case there is nothing to document your visit. As well, depending on where you are headed, a good set of shoes, maybe long pants, bug spray and a flashlight will all come in handy and you will be glad once you are out in the field to be prepared!

If you are looking to get started with geocaching, take a peek at some products that will compliment your outdoor experience!

Thanks for visiting, and hope to see you out there in the field!

dadnalexa